What are the certifications?
In Japan: Organic JAS
In Japan, there is an organic JAS standard approved by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries.
Once certified by this institution, you will be able to be called "organic".
European Union: Euro Leaf
Europe also has standards for certifying organic foods, and those who respects the rules are allowed to use the Euro Leaf logo.
Since 2012, displaying the logo on labels became mandatory. However, the use of the logo is optional for unwrapped foods and imported products.
Cépages wineries with this certificate: Domaine de Cébène, Domaine Deneufbourg, Domaine le Roc des Anges, Domaine le Conte des Floris
From France: ECOCERT
Founded in 1991, ECOCERT is an international organic certification recognized by the French Ministry of Economy and the Department of Agriculture based in Toulouse (France).
Today, there is 23 branch offices (including Japan) around the world and known in more than 80 countries.
Also in France: AB certification
In 1981, the French government established guidelines on organic farming, and since 1985, the AB mark has been used as an organic-certified mark for organic foods that meet the standards.
However, this AB mark can only be applied to products processed in the EU and those that have cleared the strict examination of ECOCERT.
Cépages wineries with this certificate: Domaine Combel La Serre, Domaine Alain Chabanon, Domaine Berthollier, La Nouvelle Donne, Domaine des Soulanes, Domaine les Ondines, Domaine Saint Damien
From Germany: Demeter
Demeter is Germany's oldest private certification organization. The standards are extremely strict, and only organic foods/grapes made by a method called biodynamic agriculture can be certified as Demeter. Recognized wine labels can be marked with the Demeter certification mark.
There are three methods for farming grapes used for organic wine. We will explain each of them, but first you need to know that there are stricter rules for biologic than for lutte raisonnée, and for biodynamics than for biologic farming. All of these are farming methods using less chemical substances and are cultivated to be as closed to nature as possible, but there are differences in the rules.
- Lutte raisonnée farming method : The lute raisonnée farming method, which is also called pesticide-reducing farming method, does not mean that chemical fertilizers are not completely used. Basically, it is cultivated without using chemical fertilizers or pesticides, but when the need arises, their use is permitted in very small amounts. Since there is no clear definition and no certified organization to rule it, we have to trust the winemakers when it comes to the quantity of pesticides used. Even if you want to be organic, you may have to use pesticides from year to year in difficult environments caused by the weather.
- Biologic farming: Biologic farming is also known as organic farming. Unlike the lutte raisonnée farming method, chemical fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, etc. cannot be used, so animal waste are used as fertilizer instead.
However, Bordeaux mixture, a traditional pesticide for disease prevention, can be used as an exception. Harvesting has to be done by hand; no machines are allowed.
- Biodynamic farming : Biodynamic farming is basically the same as biologic farming. The difference is in the farming method: they use the power of celestial bodies and the universe. This farming method is based on the theory advocated by an Australian philosopher named Rudolf Steiner.
Specifically, the movement of the moon and constellations determines the date for homemade fertilizer application (there is 2 recipes to follow) and grape harvesting.
This biodynamic farming method is used in one of the most famous burgundy: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
Cépages wineries with this certificate: Domaines Goisot, Domaine Olivier Pithon, Mas d'Espanet, Domaine de l'Oustal Blanc, Domaine Danjou Banessy, Domaine le Soula, Domaine Tribouley, Château Couronneau
HVE (High Environmental Value certification)
HVE certification (meaning "high environmental value") is given to farmers / vine growers who choose to take the right approach, from growing grapes to bottling.
Farmers must comply to the next 4 categories: environment authentication, biodiversity conservation, plant protection strategy, fertilizer management, water resources measure.
There are 3 levels of HVE certification:
Level 1 _ Understanding the status quo – It means that the vine grower has a basic knowledge of “sustainable” cultivation. It also includes the specifications of levels 2 and 3.
Level 2 _ Comply with specified items – Comply with 16 standards in the 4 categories named above.
Level 3 _ Achieve defined indicators –Is based on results indicators relating to biodiversity, phytosanitary strategy, fertilization, and irrigation management.
* Level 2 and Level 3 are certified by the French Ministry of Agriculture. Once the famer got cleared for those 4 categories, the HVE logo can be used. HVE (Environmental Value-oriented Certification) is a certification for all agricultural fields, and currently about 80% is applied to viticulture. As of July 2020, Gironde Province, where Bordeaux is located, is the top with 1,610 out of 8,218 registered wineries.
Cépages wineries with this certificate: Château de la Font du Loup, Château de Plaisance, Domaine Schoenheitz
Mentioned in this blog
The estate is named after the local word (Soulane) for a south-southeast facing hillside was created in 2002. It’s located between Tautavel and Maury and is owned by Cathy and Daniel Laffite.
The vineyard is located in a natural corridor surrounded by garrige, at the foot of the rocky peaks of the last Cathar stronghold, the Château de Quéribus.
The Estate
The 17 hectare vineyard is divided into 4 main islets made up of 16 plots.
The soils being geologically made up of metamorphic shales, sedimentary marls, clay and limestone, the vine flourishes on steep, arid and stony soils. Daniel quipped "I get through two pairs of climbing boots a year!"
They spend a lot of time working the 'soil' encouraging the vines to grow deep roots to reach water, as "we only get 400mm or so of rain here."
The estate benefits from exceptional sunshine accompanied by a dry north-west wind, the Tramontane, which is an asset for plants.
Winemaking Process
Organic farming respects and preserves our environment for future generations. "Organic farming is more philosophical than a marketing thing for us" they say.
The entire harvest is picked manually and is sorted on the vine if necessary.
The method of vinification is traditional, the whole harvest is destemmed, each plot is vinified separately in small vats in order to highlight a grape variety, a terroir and a blend.
Daniel favors wines with bright fruits, fresh flavors and silky tannins.
In the early 1980s, Denys Armand moved to Mas d'Espanet, near Sommières (Gard area). He decided to keep the old vines that was already there and planted white grape varieties by selecting the appropriate terroirs.
Concerned about the type of wines he produces; he chooses biodynamics winemaking process (AB and DEMETER certification) and intensive work in the vineyard. Because he knows that good wines are made first in the vineyard.
The vinifications are done in a very natural way, simply accompanied by the winegrower. The result is well up to the ambitions of Agnès and Denys!
The wines of Mas d'Espanet perfectly reflects the terroirs they grown into.
Reds are very fresh and easy to drink. Whites are ethereal and also very fresh.
Located at one of the highest points in Châteaneuf-du-Pape, Château Font du Loup, which translates to 'fountain of the wolves', is named after the natural springs in the area where the wolves would come to drink. Font du Loup has been in the Melia family since 1942 and is now run by the extremely charming Anne Charlotte Melia-Bachas with her husband Laurent and the help of consultant Philippe Cambie. Font du Loup has roughly 20 hectares (organically farmed), including holdings in the La Crau and Font du Loup vineyards, and is planted on mostly sandy soil with vines that reach 100 years old. It is located in one of the coolest appellation places with slow ripening of the grapes. The wines are made in an elegant, pure, pretty style and are as warm and inviting as the good Anne-Charlotte and Laurent.
The Terroir
The soil is mostly sand with rocks. Usually the sand is not the most appropriate soil for vineyard because it doesn’t keep enough water. But the water spring nearby creates a phreatic water is only 50 meters deep. So the vineyard can irrigate itself when it needs. It is located in one of the coolest appellation places with slow ripening of the grapes.
The Vinification
Grapes are hand-picked, selected and put in small crates to keep the grapes intact. They are doing a plot fermentation in barrels or tanks with indigenous yeasts.
The Legend
The estate was built close to a natural spring where wolves from the Mont Ventoux went to drink. This is the origin of the estate’s name: The fountain of the wolves.
